BLOZ UP

The car runs like crap since the dyno day. Missing, etc. I've acquired a Maxima engine and have started the process of making it a 300ZX motor. This involves:

I've heard the phrase "dynos are heartbreakers", but it's even more true when you swap a low compression non-turbo motor for a lower compression turbo one.

Skip to 6:15 or so for the point.

Assuming my car remains in a working state, I will be able to dyno it tomorrow. I cleaned my injectors since my req_fuel kept climbing. It seems to be back to normal. Sort of. My VE values are still high--but 80 at idle instead of 110. My req_fuel is back to 6ms for now.

I added a tailpipe which has noticeably lowered the volume from inside the car.

I also fixed my horrid coil placement:

Somewhere around the timing belt job and upgrading to MS2Extra 3.2.1, my req_fuel went all whack. For 550cc injectors (base pressure @ 43 psi), I should have a req_fuel of 6.0ms. I can't get a sane VE table with that though. My idle VE's would be over 100. And I know my engine isn't anywhere near 100% efficient at idle.

Sane values would be 20-40%. Really 40% is kind of high, but much better than what I have now. So in order to get these nicer values, I have to scale my req_fuel up. Waaay up. To 16ms. That's a joke. My stock injectors required 11ms. And they were half the volume!

So I've been flashing and reflashing and re-entering values but I still can't get a normal VE table with 6.0ms req_fuel. So I set it to 16 and tuned what I have for now. I was hoping to go to the 1/8 mile track tomorrow to do some WOT tuning, but it doesn't look like that will happen if I am hitting 110% injector duty cycle at 8psi (about stock boost for these motors). I'm not seeing my air to fuel ratio pegging out and going lean (it should stop flowing more at and after 100%--really after 90% they get unreliable and can't open/close fast enough), so something is lying here.

I will have to check the injectors, fuel filters, and resistors at some point before the dyno day.

In other news I made a so-called "cold air intake":

I've plugged up my dead O2 sensor's hole. The new sensor should arrive soon. I also have a spare wideband back from when I worked at a dyno shop. I've got nothing to lose by splicing it into the dead one's harness and seeing if it works (other than blowing up my LC-1).

I did manage to get it driving well without the O2. So well that the DMV has inspected it and determined that it is "safe" to drive on public highways. I had to hurry my inspection and registration stuff since I received a ticket...

I went to the Z meeting. Car drove like crap. Bucked, hesitated, wouldn't accelerate. Found out on the way home that my TPSaccel threshold was too low, causing TPS accel to be activated during cruise. My accel bins were also too rich, causing rich misfires (!). After tuning that out, it drove pretty good. I parked it for the night.

I've got the new seals and the belt is on. Not tensioned yet but I hope to get it all back together before the Z Club meeting this coming thursday. Cam seals went in really well, but the crank seal's oil pump surface was all marred to hell from someone not knowing how to get it out without screwing up the sealing surface. Luckily the crank appeared to be unharmed. I managed to clean it up a bit and got the new seal in, but it did catch a little. Pretty confident that it won't leak. Ugh.

So I've taken off most of the stuff in front of the engine. Timing belt is coated in oil. Inner timing cover is also coated.

And the timing belt looks like it's in suicide mode:

I found a potential cause for the oil spray: 

I've heard stories of people blowing seals all the time. Now I have experience it first hand by being an idiot and plumbing both valve cover vents together (mocked up to judge length), and starting the engine. On a car with lots of blow-by.

So at least one of the seals blew out and spewed oil everywhere! So after fixing all that earlier trash, I have to tear it all apart again. No more exhaust or coolant leaks though...