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Last Updated: February 22 2008 06:57:42.
Megasquirt II
Well, I had a lot of fun with my original MS install on my Z31, and I also learned a few things. The first one was to buy a kit the next time. The amount of money I spent on re-ordering parts from digi-key could have gone towards the extra few bucks that a pre-collected kit from one of the megasquirt suppliers charges. That's the big one. I mean you get everything you need to build the MS all in one shipment, from one dude. It's really worth the extra 20 or whatever bucks it is over getting it yourself.
For my install I ended up at Glen's Garage, buying a MS II kit with the 3 bar map sensor, the relay board kit. These all came with all the components, cases, boards, heat compound, and additional instructions for part replacements/upgrades, installing the new map sensor, etc. Everything I needed to assemble the damned thing save an actual soldering iron and some solder.
Assembly for the V3.0 board is more straightforward and easier to understand than the v2.2 board. Follow along the instructions from [LINK], keeping in mind any specific instructions that came with your kit. Also, where the instructions branch for different options, you will need to choose Optical/hall tach input, and [something else]. Make sure you have all the tools you need and a nice place to work. Be nice to your back.
Once you have your MS ready, clean off any excess flux from the back of the board. I used brake clean on my v2.2 board, and that worked great. I didn't have any for my v3.0, so I tried some of my sister's nail polish remover. It didn't work nearly as well as brake clean, and may have been a mistake, but whatever. After it has dried, try it in the stim some more to reverify it's operation.
Your VG30 is going to need to have a few essential sensors to work with MS II. However, there are some options, depending on your setup.
I chose to use the ignitor that's provided on your MS II board. This way I don't need to have an external transistor and pull up resistor. You can use the ignitor for the stock VG30 coil (at least the Z31 unit). I haven't tried any aftermarket units, like MSD coils, but I'm sure they're all pretty much the same to hook up. Just look it up before you blow it up.
For the sensors, I like using the GM sensors. You can recalibrate your MS to use the stock coolant temperature sensor, and then get the GM air temp. sensor, but I like to be consistent. To install the CTS on a Z31, there's a nice place on the lower intake plenum that can easily be drilled out and retapped with the [SIZE] tap that the GM CTS uses.
[PIC]
It's the bigger hole, the one the stock ECU from a Z31 used for it's own CTS. The other side, with the smaller hole, is for the stock Z31 dash. I plan on using an aftermarket gauge, and the electric sending units can but put in that hole.
As for the IAT sensor, you need to drill a hole in your pipe somewhere. I recommend you add a bung of somesort to it. A small bung, unlike my friend with a turbo miata, who has a bung the size of the sensor's tip. It can techincally be anywhere on your intake piping, as long as it's on the intake piping. That is, it can be before a turbo, after a turbo, anywhere really. I suppose you could theoretically "tune" any offset out of it, but it's best to put it after the turbo, right before the throttle body. This provides the best tunability in my experience.
Oxygen sensor. Get an Innovate LC-1 kit. Now. Don't get an LM-1, as it is more of a "standalone" wideband tool; the LC-1 is way better suited to the megasquirt thing. Hahaha, don't even try to use a narrowband.
Here's the big one, the Crank Angle Sensor. It might actually be called Cam Angle Sensor, since it is installed on the cam, and rotates off of it, but since the outputs of it correspond to the crank and cylinders, I'll call it a Crank Angle Sensor. The VG30 uses a bad ass optical sensor. It is embedded in the distributor assembly and it is very easy to hook up. Be glad you don't have to hook up a ghetto looking crank Hall sensor. I mean, they are more accurate, but they are a pain to put on, and they look effing stupid. That's my opinion, anyway. Well, the VG uses an optical sensor that has two outputs. There's one for each bloody degree, 360 total, that the engine turns, or there's a much nicer 60 degree output. That is, the ouput signals everytime on a cylinders TDC. Whether or not it is firing. I think. Regardless of how it works, it's the one we need MS to use.
Here's a diagram of my setup:
If you look, you notice that I have a switch panel controlling the Fuel Pump, as well as the switched "IGN", or switched lead to the relay box. This is because I have no ignition key, and also because it's way more bad ass this way. Each of these switches on the panel have their own fuse, so the ones on the relay board are redundant. Also, I think you should know that I spent a good 5 hours on a nifty, multi-layered PSP 10 image, which for some reason, became corrupted and all I had remaining was this jpeg, so I that's the only "original" that I have now. Ugh.
First, I recommend replacing the stock Nissan connector to the CAS with a nice Weatherpak connector. Chances are, the Nissan one is all nasty and old.
Either way, the +12v line (red), should be hooked up to an +12v source only when the ignition is on. Ground the black wire to a nice ground. That is, one common with MS's grounds. You can hook it up to pin 7 on your MS box, (where they have it on the v3.0 External Wiring Diagram [LINK]), but it doesn't really matter.
The actual sensor output, the white wire, needs to go to pin 24 on your MS. It's listed as the "Tach/Crank Position Input" on the External Wiring Diagram. Note, though, that you will need a pull-up resistor in order for MS to "see" the signal. Basically, you hook the signal line up to a +12v line (preferably an IGN only source... like the power wire for the CAS just mentioned) by way of a resistor, and this "amplifies" the signal going to the MS box. The resistor used is a 1/4 Watt, 1 KOhm resistor. I have also used an 8th Watt one temporarily. The other signal wire, the green one, is not needed.
The ignition ouput from MS (pin 36), goes directly to your coil. Specifically, you connect it to the negative side. The positive side needs to be connected to a +12v ignition source, just like the CAS +12v.
A general idea of how all this is going to work is [this is not really at all correct]:
You don't want to have your coil, injectors, or whatnot powered if the car is not moving. The could potentially blow up your coil, injectors, etc. It will also drain your battery if you are just trying to mess with something on MS with the engine not running.
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